Home: Frames and Fiberglass Bodies: Warrior Chassis Knock-down Kit:
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Home: Frames and Fiberglass Bodies: Warrior Chassis Knock-down Kit: | |
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| 1) | Lay the pieces out and become familiar with them and their position. |
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| Note:
(Front End) |
The colored tiewrap on the armrail by the front clamp indicates which front end these armrails are made for. Yellow indicates balljoint front axle and Red indicates link/king pin front axle. You must use the front axle assembly that corresponds to the color of the tiewrap, otherwise all of the side pieces will not be the correct length. The color tiewrap on the rear roll bar will be Blue for IRS (includes 68 swing axle) and Green for Swing Axle (67 & earlier). Note: the two different rear roll bars do not interchange. If you were sold a kit with a swing axle rear rollbar you can cut off 1¾ to make it an IRS. If you were sold a kit with an IRS rear rollbar, you can add 1¾ to make it a swing axle. |
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| 2) | Select a flat surface to assemble the chassis. Starting with the chassis floor, space it up from the flat floor surface by 2 ½. This will allow the torsion frame horns to sit on the flat surface because they should be lower than the bottom of the chassis floor. The torsion tube will butt against the rear of the floor, center it side to side and top to bottom. Now you may tack weld the torsion to the rear of the sidebars of the chassis floor. |
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| 3) | If you are using a balljoint front end, you will have to remove the stock steering stop. The link/king pin front end does not have a stop so, you dont have to have one but you can fabricate one after you have the front end bolted on. You also have to remove the grease zerts and you can drill through the clamps and put the zerts back in or drill and tap the front end in a different location and move the zerts. |
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| 4) | Bolt your front end to the clamps on the floor sidebars, leaving loose enough that you can rotate the front end. |
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| 5) | Set the rear roll bar on the body mount pads of the torsion shock towers. The lower part of the roll bar (below the bend) should be vertical (90?). The front edge of the roll bar tube should be in line with the front edge of the body mount pad. |
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| 6) | The chassis you purchased should have a rear roll bar that corresponds with the type of rear torsion that you have. (If not, check the information in the last sentence of the 2nd paragraph) For an IRS torsion and 68 Swing Axle torsion, measure up 8½ from the bottom of the roll bar, scribe a line on the front and back of the roll bar. For Swing Axle torsions 67 & earlier measure 10¼ from the bottom of the roll bar and scribe a line on the front and back of the roll bar. This line will be the top edge position of the arm rail and rear engine hoop. Both of these tubes should end up being on the same plane. The measurement between the front clamps on the armrails is 22½. Tip the front axle assembly back into the arm rail front clamps, center the front end, now tighten the front clamps. Tack weld the arm rail to the rear roll bar at the 8½ or 10¼ mark. |
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| 7) | Position B, D, and F respectively, at the following dimensions, from the back edge of the front clamp on the floor to the front edge of each piece. Use a small square to position the uprights vertical (90?) to the floor. B = 9 1/4 D = 39 1/8 F = 69 3/8 Now tack them in place. |
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| 8) | The rear engine hoop tacks to the rear roll bar at the 8½ mark that you made and it will follow the same plane as the arm rails. The back braces fit between the rear roll bar and the rear engine cage. Because the rear roll bar is already in place, it should be error proof to install the rear engine hoop and the back braces. Find the center across the top of the rear roll bar and across the back of the rear engine hoop and put a mark there. The back braces should have 23 between them (inside to inside) as they are centered on the rear roll bar and the rear engine hoop. Now you can tack weld those in place. |
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| 9) | Make a mark at the center of the front roll bar like you did with the rear roll bar. The top kickers fit between the front and rear roll bars and they also have 23 between them (inside to inside) as they are centered. The rear bottom edge of the front roll bar should meet the arm rail directly above the back edge of bar D. |
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| 10) | Identify the 1 angle sidebars (C, E, & G) according to the measurements on the parts list, there are 2 of each. Follow the drawing for installing the 1 angle sidebars. There may be an angle cut on one side and a notch on the other. These help them fit in the corners. If it doesnt seem to fit right, turn the piece over until you find the best fit. |
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| 11) | The 1 side bar A is installed just behind the upper clamp, at 90? to the floor. It must also be as far forward as possible to allow for movement of the tie rods but allow ¼ to 5/16 between it and the front clamp for clearance to get a wrench onto the clamp bolt head. The A bar packed with all kits is 7¼ which is for balljoint. For Link/King pin, you need to cut 1 off of the bottom. The top is angle cut to fit the angle of the arm rail. |
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| 12) | The underbars install at the same width as the back braces. The rear transmission mount is an option and they are available from bugsandbuggies.com |
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If you have a question about a part on this page, please email us at question2@bugsandbuggies.com or call Due to the volume of email we receive, it may take us a few days to answer your question. For time-critical issues, please call us at the above number. |
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1-800-303-6211 - (517-625-1884) M-F: 9am-5:30pm ET - Sat: 9am-2pm ET Fax: 517-625-1889 Please call this location for Internet/Phone Sales | 1-800-636-0669 - (313-533-0711) T-F: 9am-5pm ET Sat: 9am-3pm ET Fax: 313-533-0779 |